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Noodle
Salad
Rice noodles, greens, and herbs make a cool bed for
sizzling stir-fried toppings of shrimp, pork, or vegetables (for
vegetarian)
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A cool noodle
salad topped with stir-fried vegetables makes a light, refreshing meal.
You can cook and cool the noodles ahead of time.
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Made from rice flour, water, and
salt, Vietnamese vermicelli-style noodles are a beloved staple in Viet Nam. A
favorite way to eat them is in what we call a cool noodle salad, a traditional
Vietnamese dish ( called bun by the Vietnamese) of noodles served at room
temperature with cool garnishes and warm toppings.
Here in the United States, cool noodle salads translate
into perfect summer suppers. The soft rice noodles sit on a bed of cool, crunchy
bean sprouts, cucumbers, lettuce, and mint, and they're topped with warm
stir-fried vegetables, meat, or shrimp.
Drizzled with a lively sauce, bun becomes an intricately
flavored dish of contrasting tastes, textures, and temperatures. It
exemplifies the freshness and liveliness of Vietnamese cuisine, it also makes a
satisfying yet healthy meal -- something we can all appreciate. The noodles and
greens are always served in copious amounts, while the meat is served in
smaller, garnish-size portions.
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Perfectly
cooked rice vermicelli noodles are soft and white but still resilient.
Rinse the cooked noodles in a colander just until they're cool and then
drain well.
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To make bun at home, start with
the right noodles; they have everything to do with
the character of the finished dish. Bun noodles are softer and less dense than
pasta and other wheat-based noodles, so they easily absorb the juices they're
bathed in. In the company of meats, spices, and herbs, bun noodles enhance them
all, helping flavors to harmonize with one another.
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Be sure to buy
rice vermicelli noodles (bun), not mung bean vermicelli (also
called bean threads).Thap Chua and Pagoda are two of the author's favorite
brands.
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Although fresh rice vermicelli is
not widely available in this country, the dried noodles are easy to find at
supermarkets and Asian grocery stores. Also called rice sticks, they are as thin
as angel hair pasta, but more wiry, and are usually sold in one-pound clear
cellophane packages. Don't confuse rice vermicelli with mung bean vermicelli
(also called bean threads), which cook up with a more toothsome texture than
rice noodles. Rice vermicelli are quick to prepare, because they don't need to
be soaked, and only need four to five minutes of cooking.
Choose the freshest and crispest lettuce and herbs for the
salad. Slice the greens gently, rather than
chopping them, so that they don't bruise and lose their juices. In Vietnam, a
number of different highly fragrant herbs such as sharp, spicy Vietnamese
coriander, anise-like red perilla, and another herb that's similar to lemon balm
is used. Here, you can find these herbs in Asian markets, and sometimes at
farmers' markets; however, mint, cilantro, basil, and Thai basil all work well.
(Thai basil plants are now available in many garden centers, if you want to have
a regular supply of this anise-scented herb.) In addition to the lettuce and
herbs, you can also add either shredded carrot or daikon radish for color and
crunch.
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Highly fragrant
herbs like spearmint, Thai basil, and red perilla (clockwise from top) are
author Mai Pham's favorites for noodle salads.
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The basic components of bun are:
(or you could substitute chicken).
With the master recipe for noodle salads, you can create different tasting bun
meals just by changing the toppings, the greens, or even the herbs.
You can prepare all the components of bun (except the
warm toppings) in advance. Nuoc cham, a
Vietnamese dipping sauce, keeps in the refrigerator for a month; with a jar
handy, you can make bun anytime. Once you cook, cool, and drain the noodles,
they'll keep at room temperature for several hours or until you're ready to
serve. You can also wash and arrange your lettuce and herbs ahead of time. Keep
them in the refrigerator covered with plenty of damp paper towels, and they'll
stay crisp. Just be sure to remove the greens a half hour or so before serving.
They should be cool, not cold.
Now all you have to do is pick your favorite topping for bun;
they're all quick-cooking.
To assemble the salads -- Remove
the salad bowls from the refrigerator 20 to 30 min. before serving. The greens
and bowl should be cool, not cold. Fluff the noodles with your fingers and
divide them among the prepared salad bowls. Put the cooked topping on the
noodles and garnish each bowl with the peanuts and cilantro. Pass the nuoc
cham at the table; each diner should drizzle about 3 Tbs. over the salad and
then toss the salad in the bowl a few times with two forks or chopsticks before
eating.
Master Recipe for Cool Noodle
Salads
If you like, prepare the greens and garnishes in advance
and refrigerate. Cook the noodles up to two hours ahead and keep at room
temperature. At serving time, you'll just have to prepare the toppings.
Serves four.
For the greens
2 cups washed and shredded romaine, red, or green leaf
lettuce
2 cups fresh, crisp bean sprouts
1-1/2 cups peeled, seeded, and julienned cucumber
1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small whole mint leaves
1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped or small basil or Thai basil
leaves
For the greens and
herbs -- Divide the lettuce, bean sprouts,
cucumber, mint, and basil among four large soup or pasta bowls. If working ahead
of time, cover each bowl with damp paper towels and refrigerate.
For the garnishes
2 Tbs. chopped roasted peanuts
12 sprigs cilantro
For the noodles
8 oz. dried rice vermicelli
Bring a medium
potful of water to a rolling boil. Add the rice vermicelli and, stirring often,
cook them until the strands are soft and white, but still resilient, 3 to 5 min.
Don't be tempted to undercook them, as they must be fully cooked to absorb the
flavors of the dish. Rinse them in a colander under cold water just until they
are cool and the water runs clear. Let the noodles drain in the colander for 30
min., and then set them aside for up to 2 hours, unrefrigerated.
Nuoc Cham
(Vietnamese Dipping Sauce)
Keep a jar of this sauce
in the refrigerator; it will last for a month. You can find ground chile paste
(my favorite is Rooster brand) and fish sauce at many supermarkets but always at
Asian groceries.
Yields 1-1/2 cups.
1 clove garlic
2 to 3 Thai bird chiles (or 1 small jalapeño or serrano
chile), cored, seeded, and minced; more or less to taste
1/2 tsp. ground chile paste; more or less to taste
2/3 cup hot water
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup fish sauce
2 Tbs. fresh lime juice
2 Tbs. shredded carrots (optional)
In a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic and fresh chiles
to a paste. (Or mince them together with a knife.) In a small bowl, combine this
garlic and chile mixture with the chile paste, hot water, and sugar. Stir well.
Add the fish sauce and lime juice and combine. Float the carrots on top. Let sit
for at least 15 min. before using.
Vegetarian Nuoc Cham (Chili
Dipping Sauce)
(Makes about 1 1/3 cups)
2 Tablespoons chopped garlic
2 Tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh chili peppers
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup white vinegar
3/4 cup water
2 Tablespoons thinly sliced scallion
Combine all ingredients except scallions in a blender and mix
until smooth. Pour in individual dipping bowls and garnish with scallions.
For
the topping
Select one of these. The
toppings can be served hot or slightly cooled.
 Warm
Lemongrass Shrimp
Once the ingredients are prepared,
this delicious topping takes just minutes to cook.
Serves four as a topping for bun.
2 Tbs. vegetable oil
2 shallots, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 lb. large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 Tbs. minced fresh lemongrass
2 cups sliced white mushrooms
2 tsp. fish sauce
1 tsp. sugar
Salt to taste
In a large skillet, heat the oil over high heat. Add the
shallots and garlic, quickly stirring until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the
shrimp and lemongrass; stir-fry for about 2 min. Add the mushrooms and sprinkle
with the fish sauce, sugar, and a little salt. Stir-fry until the shrimp is
cooked and the mushrooms are wilted, another 2 to 3 min. Remove from the heat
and serve warm on bun.
Vietnamese Grilled Pork
A caramel sauce is
the secret to this flavorful pork.
Serves four as a topping for bun.
For the caramel
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
For the pork
2 large shallots, sliced, or 5 scallions (white parts
only), chopped
2 tsp. fish sauce
2 tsp. soy sauce
Pinch salt
2 Tbs. vegetable oil
1-1/2 lb. pork loin or sirloin, sliced into large pieces
about 1/4-inch thick
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To make the caramel -- Combine
the sugar and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Stir
a few times and allow to simmer until the sauce turns deep brown, about 15 min.
Meanwhile, have some extra hot water ready on a back burner. Once the sauce
reaches the desired color, carefully add 4 to 5 Tbs. hot water to slow the
cooking and thin the sauce. (Be sure to hold the pan away from you so that none
of the hot caramel splatters on you when you add the water.) If necessary, add
more hot water. The sauce should only be thick enough to coat the back of a
spoon. Set aside to cool.
To make the pork -- Pound
the shallots in a mortar and pestle or mince by hand. Transfer the shallots to a
mixing bowl and combine with the fish sauce, soy sauce, salt, vegetable oil, and
cooled caramel sauce. Stir well to blend. Add the pork slices and let marinate
for 20 min. Meanwhile, heat a broiler or light a charcoal or gas grill. When the
broiler or fire is very hot, cook the pork until just done, about 2 min. on each
side. Let the pork rest for 10 to 15 min., cut into thin strips, and serve on bun.
Stir-Fried Vegetables (vegetarian
topping)
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You can try this
topping with more unusual vegetables, like Chinese long beans or jícama. I like
the crisp tofu in this recipe, but you could also substitute sliced, cooked
chicken.
Serves four as a topping for bun.
For the tofu
2 Tbs. vegetable oil
8 oz. firm tofu, drained and cut into rectangular strips
about 1-inch wide
For the vegetables
2 Tbs. vegetable oil
2 shallots, thinly sliced
6 dried black mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 30 min.,
drained, stemmed, and thinly sliced
2 cups broccoli florets (cut through their stems into thin
slices), blanched in boiling water and drained
1-1/2 cups shredded green or Napa cabbage
1-1/2 cups thinly sliced bok choy
2 Tbs. soy sauce; more or less to taste
1/2 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
To cook the tofu -- Heat the
oil in a nonstick pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the tofu pieces and
stir-fry until nicely browned. Remove and drain on paper towels. When cool, cut
them into bite-size strips. Set aside.
To cook the vegetables -- Heat
the oil in a large skillet or sauté pan over high heat. If the pan is smaller
than 12 inches, cook the vegetables in two batches. Wait until the oil gets very
hot, almost smoking (the vegetables should sizzle during the entire cooking
time), and add the shallots, constantly stirring until they become fragrant,
about 20 seconds. Add the mushrooms and stir-fry for another 20 seconds. Add the
broccoli, cabbage, and bok choy, stir for 30 seconds, and add the red bell
pepper. (If the pan gets too dry, sprinkle in 1 to 2 Tbs. water.)
Working quickly, create an open space in the middle of
the pan by pushing the vegetables against the edges. Add the soy sauce to the
open area. It should sizzle and caramelize slightly, creating a distinctive
aroma. Stir the vegetables with the soy sauce a few times and remove from the
heat.
Toss the vegetables with the tofu and top the bun.
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